Speed sport climbing was offered at the Olympics for the first time during the Paris Games.
Good thing for Team USA, as Sam Watson beat his own speed rock climbing world record—set back in April at the IFSC Climbing World Cup—at the Games to advance to the quarterfinals. The 18-year-old from Texas can now claim to be the fastest-ever Olympian, at least when it comes to traveling vertically.
“I suppose 4.75, the fastest time ever run in the Olympics in a timed sport,” said Watson of his personal best, 0.04 seconds faster than his previous. “That’s a cool title, no one can take that away, I suppose.”
But the first-time Olympian wasn’t the only American participating. Emma Hunt set a personal best of 6.36 seconds but finished fifth after losing in the women’s speed climbing quarterfinals.
Here is what you need to know about speed sport climbing.
What Is Speed Climbing?
Sport climbing debuted in Tokyo three years ago with a combined event that combined three disciplines – speed, boulder, and lead – into one medal event. In Paris, there was a medal for speed and another for boulder and lead combined.
The Basics
The speed event is an exhilarating and fast-paced discipline within the sport of climbing, where athletes race against each other to ascend a standardized climbing wall as quickly as possible. For those spectating at a speed climbing event, a moment’s distraction can prove costly.
Athletes scale a 15-meter (49 feet) wall in around five seconds, scampering up a series of holds toward a red buzzer at the top of the route. The wall for international competition has two climbing lanes, each 3 meters (10 feet) wide.
This sport is not solely about going as fast as you can in a vacuum, but also about beating your opponent in a head-to-head race. Even a slow time can secure a spot in the next round if it means slapping the red buzzer at the top of the wall ahead of the adjacent person.
The route is always the same, allowing climbers to memorize and perfect their techniques.
Are There Regulators?
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the organization that regulates and promotes climbing competitions worldwide. The IFSC sets the standards for speed climbing and other climbing competition formats and determines which events are sanctioned for world record attempts.
The IFSC was established in 2007, succeeding the International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) which was formed in 1997.
The organization includes member federations from countries around the world, all dedicated to the development and regulation of sport climbing.
